The North Authentic's Standards
Helping you avoid products with ingredients that are up to no good. We're sticklers and we're not sorryWE'RE GUIDED BY A FIERCE INTERNAL COMPASS
Every product we carry has to meet the 4 points on our compass. Sticking to this ensures we’re only providing the best products for you, your hair, and the planet.
Our ingredient standards are the strictest in the business. Why? You’d be surprised at how many so-called “clean” products still contain substances we don’t want anywhere near our bodies. (The beauty industry isn’t regulated in the U.S., so anything is fair game.)
Your scalp is more absorbent than the skin on your forearms, FYI. So if a product contains even a trace of a chemical from our Hair Crimes List (yes, even one part per billion), we say buh-bye.
If a product contains an Ingredient to Be Aware Of we highlight it so that you can see if it may be an allergen issue for you.
Who wants to put a bunch of “natural ingredients” on their hair, only to walk out the door looking like a train wreck? You’d go right back to those chemicals in a heartbeat.
That’s why we’re obsessed with carrying only the products that get gorgeous results. They’ve also got to smell good, feel amazing, and be a pleasure to use...because only the best for our beauty, obvs.
We really do test for all these things, tapping our team as well as a squad of real volunteers for their hairpinions.
fun fact
Only 5-10% of the products we test make it onto our shelves.
The bar is high and we like it that way.
The planet is near and dear to our heart, and we do everything we can to leave it in good shape. Carrying chemical-free products isn’t just good for our health; it’s good for our earth—keeping nasties out of our environment.
We also strive to only stock products that come in sustainable packaging. We’ll continue to work with our brands and make our own eco-friendly changes until we reach our goal of being a completely sustainable business.
It's a crime to put anything on your head that has been shown to have negative health impacts. But the hair care industry is just starting to become more conscious, and not every products is perfectly clean. We created a list of Ingredients to Be Aware Of to help you quickly identify ingredients that may cause allergen or other minor infractions.
Products that are rated "North Authentic Approved" are free of absolutely all sketchy ingredients from our Hair Crimes and Ingredients to Be Aware Of lists and will get you great results).
If you don’t want a single whiff of any sketchy ingredients from our Hair Crimes or Ingredients to Be Aware Of Lists in your products, just look for our green seal of approval.
It gets awarded to products that have ZERO ingredients from our lists, and have also passed the performance test from our team of pro stylists.
Free Of Ingredients
look for the badge
Want to steer clear of specific ingredients? You've come to the right shop. Just look for the badges like these on each product page...can't miss 'em.
These ingredients break all the laws of healthy hair as they have been shown to do more harm to humans than good (i.e. cancer, hormonal disruption, irritation, and/or other nasty side effects).
And we’re not having it. We make sure the products we carry contain ZERO percent of the following ingredients, which have been shown to have negative health impacts. Any benefit they could possibly provide to your hair simply isn’t worth it.
Use: Contaminant (unlisted in ingredient labels) - a substance that renders a product impure and unsuitable for use.
What is it: A by-product generated by ethoxylation (a process where ethylene oxide is added to other chemicals to make them less harsh)
Health Concern: Carcinogen, Organ Toxicity, Birth Defects
Found In: Products that create suds (such as shampoo, liquid soap, bubble bath), hair relaxers, others
AKA: Sodium laureth sulfate, PEG compounds, chemicals that include the clauses xynol, ceteareth and oleth
Use: Preservative
What is it: Formaldehyde
Health Concern: Carcinogen, Neurotoxicity, Developmental toxicity, asthma, skin/eye irritation, allergy trigger
Found in: Shampoo, Body wash, Bubble Bath, Nail polish, Eyelash glue.
AKA: DMDM hydantoin (formaldehyde releaser), Glyoxal, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Diazolidinyl Urea, Methylene Glycol, Polyoxymethylene Urea, Quaternium-15, Sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, bromopol, 2- bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol (formaldehyde releaser)
EWG SCORE: 10 INCI SCORE:
Controversial/At Risk
Use: Surfactant
What is it: By-product of a process called ethoxylation, in which ethylene oxide, is added to other chemicals to make them less harsh.
Health Concern: Contamination with 1,4-dioxane, Potential carcinogens, Endocrine disruption, Causes skin and eye irritation, Can trigger Allergies
Found In: All types of hair products
AKA: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate
EWG SCORE: 1-3 INCI SCORE:
Not So Good
Use: Preservatives substance added to delay decomposition and inhibit spoilage by preventing growth of bacteria, yeast, and/or mold in a product, Antimicrobial agents
What is it: Esters of para hydroxybenzoic acid
Health Concern: Endocrine disruption, potential carcinogen, developmental, reproductive and immune toxicity, allergy trigger
Found In: Shampoos, conditioners, lotions, facial, shower cleansers and scrubs
AKA: Ethylparaben, butylparaben, methylparaben, propylparaben, isobutylparaben, isopropylparaben, other ingredients ending in –paraben
Use: Used in scented products to help the scent linger
What is it: Derived from phthalic acid, Phthalates share a similar chemical structure and are widely used in consumer products.
Health Concern: Endocrine disruption, developmental and reproductive toxicity, cancer
Found In: Color cosmetics, fragranced lotions, body washes and hair care products, nail polish and treatment
AKA: phthalate, DEP, DBP, DEHP and fragrance
Use: Commonly used antimicrobial agents found in many soaps and detergents.
What is it: Antibacterials
Health Concern: Endocrine disruption, toxic to aquatic environments, contributes to antibiotic resistance in bacteria
Found In: Antibacterial soaps and detergents, toothpaste and tooth whitening products, antiperspirants/deodorants, shaving products, creams, color cosmetics.
AKA: Triclosan (TSC) and triclocarban (TCC)
EWG SCORE: 7 INCI SCORE:
Controversial/At Risk
Use: Filters UV‐B rays from the sun.
What is it: Formed by combining methoxycinnamic acid and 2-ehtylhexanol-compounds which are not harmful on their own. When mixed, they form a clear liquid that does not dissolve in water.
Health Concern: Endocrine disruption, mimics estrogen and can disrupt thyroid function, reproductive and developmental toxicity, and organ system toxicity.
Found In: Hair color products and shampoos, sunscreen, lipstick, nail polish, skin creams
AKA: Octinoxate,o methoxycinnamate (OMC), parsol, parsol MCX, parsol MOX, escalol, 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, Ethyhexyl Methoxycinnamate
EWG SCORE: 5-8 INCI SCORE:
Controversial
Use: Petrolatum, or petroleum jelly, derived from petroleum, is often used in personal care products as a moisturizing agent.
What is it: Petrolatum is a byproduct of petroleum refining.[1] With a melting point close to body temperature, petrolatum softens upon application and forms a water-repellant film around the applied area, creating an effective barrier against the evaporation of the skin’s natural moisture and foreign particles or microorganisms that may cause infection.[2] Petrolatum is odorless and colorless, and it has an inherently long shelf life. These qualities make petrolatum a popular ingredient in skincare products and cosmetics.
Health Concern: Cancer. The primary concern with petrolatum is the potential contamination with PAHs. The National Toxicology Program (NTP) considers PAHs as a class to contain reasonably anticipated carcinogens
Found In: Lotions, Cosmetics
AKA: Paraffin, Petrolatum, Petroleum, Mineral Grease (Petrolatum), Mineral Jelly, Petrolatum, Petrolatum Amber, Petrolatum White, Petroleum Jelly, And Yellow Petrolatum
EWG SCORE: 1-4 INCI SCORE:
Not So Good to Controversial
Use: An abrasive or exfoliant, a bulking agent, to prolong shelf-life, or for the controlled release of active ingredients.
What is it: Small, solid, manufactured plastic particles that are less than 5mm in diameter and do not degrade or dissolve in water.
Health Concern: These tiny plastics persist in the environment and have a damaging effect on marine life, the environment and human health. This is due to their composition, ability to adsorb toxins and potential to transfer up the marine food chain.
Found In: Microbeads can be found in certain household products, including sunscreen, facial cleansers, body wash, and cosmetics such as foundation and blush.
AKA: Polyethylene (PE), Polyethylene terephthalate (PET), Nylon (PA), Polypropylene (PP), Polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA)
Use: Mainly as a solvent
What is it: a clear, colorless liquid with an ether-like odor
Health Concern: Irritation eyes, nose, throat; headache, drowsiness, lassitude (weakness, exhaustion); ataxia, tremor; anemic pallor; In Animals: reproductive, teratogenic effects. Issues with: eyes, respiratory system, central nervous system, blood, kidneys, reproductive system, hematopoietic system
Found In: Cleaning compounds and cosmetics
AKA: EGME, Ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, Glycol monomethyl ether, 2-Methoxyethanol
Use: Some metals are intentionally added as ingredients, while others are contaminants.
What is it: Lead is a potential impurity in many color cosmetics, including lipstick. Lead is a well-known and proven neurotoxin that has been linked to learning, language and behavioral problems.
Health Concern: Cancer, developmental and reproductive toxicity, organ system toxicity, environmental concerns (bioaccumulation)
Found In: Lip products, whitening toothpaste, eyeliner, nail color, foundations, sunscreens, eye shadows, blush, concealer, moisturizers, eye drops
AKA: Lead acetate, chromium, thimerosal, hydrogenated cotton seed oil, sodium hexametaphosphate. Note: products that contain contaminant metals will not list them on ingredient labels
EWG SCORE: 10 INCI SCORE:
Satisfactory
Use: Emulsifying, Skin conditioning
What is it: a soluble fluoro silicone fluid that exhibits foaming properties in water.
Health Concern: Evidence of acute aquatic toxicity; digestive system effects; nervous system effects
Found In: sunscreen, shampoos, conditioners, bath products, skin creams and lotions, shaving products, lipsticks and make-up.
AKA: siloxanes and silicones, 11-(2-(nonafluorononyl)ethoxy)-11-oxoundecyl methyl, 3-hydropoly(oxyethylene)oxypropyl methyl, dimethyl (10 mol eo average molar ratio
Use: a toxic chemical used in in nail products and hair dyes.
What is it: Toluene, found naturally in crude oil and in the tolu tree, is added to gasoline and is used in the making of many products including paint thinners, adhesives, rubber and hair dyes.
Health Concern: Developmental and reproductive toxicity, organ system toxicity, irritation
Found In: Nail polish, nail treatment, hair dyes
EWG SCORE: 10 INCI SCORE:
Controversial
Use: Binding
What is it: creates a weightless, invisible shield that repels dirt and oil to keep hair cleaner, longer.
Health Concern: Moderate Irritant
Found In: hair care preparations
AKA: (OFPMA)
EWG SCORE: 10 INCI SCORE:
Good
Use: Most commonly used in skin lighteners
What is it: In addition to its use in skin lighteners, hydroquinone is a possible impurity of tocopheryl acetate (synthetic Vitamin E) which is very common in facial and skin cleansers, facial moisturizers and hair conditioners.
Health Concern: Cancer, organ-system toxicity, respiratory tract irritation.
Found In: Skin lighteners, facial and skin cleansers, facial moisturizers, hair conditioners, finger nail coating products.
AKA: Hydryquinone, 1,4-Benzenediol, 1,4-Dihydroxybenzene, 1,4Benzenediol, 4-Hydroxyphenol, Hydroquinone, P-Dioxybenzene, And P-Hydroxyphenol
EWG SCORE: 8 INCI SCORE:
Controversial
Use: To extend shelf life and prevent rancidity
What is it: A light-colored crystalline product with a slight odor.
Health Concern: cause tumors, liver enlargement, neurotoxic effects, convulsions, and paralysis
Found In: Skin Care and food
AKA: tert-butylhydroquinone, tertiary butylhydroquinone, TBHQ, butylated hydroxyanisol
EWG SCORE: 1-2 INCI SCORE:
No rating
Use: can react with mineral acids to form salts.
What is it: colorless liquids or crystalline solids, though they may sold as pastes.
Health Concern: causes serious eye irritation, is harmful to aquatic life with long lasting effects and causes skin irritation, causes serious eye damage
Found In: the formulation of creams and lotions, hair sprays, hair dyes and colors, eye and facial products, and other hair and skin care products.
AKA: Aminomethyl Propanediol
Use: Personal care products, household cleaning products.
What is it: A chemical group comprised of amino acids and alcohols.
Health Concern: Cancer, environmental concerns (bioaccumulation), organ system toxicity
Found In: Soaps, shampoos, conditioner, lotions, shaving creams, paraffin, waxes, eyeliner, mascara, eyeshadow, blush, makeup foundations, fragrance, suncreen
AKA: Triethanolamine, Diethanolamine, DEA, TEA, cocamide DEA, cocamide MEA, DEA-cetyl phospate, DEA oleth-3 phosphate, lauramide DEA, linoleamide MEA, myristamide DEA, Olaeamide DEA, stearamide MEA, TEA-lauryl sulfate.
EWG SCORE: 5-6 INCI SCORE:
Not So Good
Use: Claims to deliver extra oxygen to the skin, solvent and texture-enhancing
What is it: synthetic perfluorocarbon
Health Concern: Cancer, allergen, immunotoxicity, developmental and reproductive toxicity
Found in: shampoo, body oil, CC cream, serums, under eye cream, body oil, body firming lotion, exfoliant/scrub, moisturizer, facial cleanswer, shaving cream, mask, lip balm
AKA: PTFE (Teflon)
Perfluorononyl Dimethicone
Perfluorodecalin
C9-15 Fluoroalcohol Phosphate
Octafluoropentyl Methacrylate
Perfluorohexane
Pentafluoropropane
Polyperfluoroethoxymethoxy Difluoroethyl Peg Phosphate
Polyperfluoroethoxymethoxy Peg-2 Phosphate
Methyl Perfluorobutyl Ether
Perfluorononylethyl Carboxydecyl Peg-10 Dimethicone
Perfluorodimethylcyclohexane
Perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene
EWG SCORE: 10 INCI SCORE:
Good
Use: Increases shine, prevents dandruff, improved softness
What is it: mineral found in soil
Health Concern: Banned as unsafe for use in cosmetics. Use restrictions (high), Persistence and bioaccumulation (high), Non-reproductive organ system toxicity (high), Ecotoxicology (low), and Occupational hazards (high)
Found in: Hand creams, Facial moisturizers, Mask, Hair styling aide, serums, hair treatment/serum, exfoliant scrub, moisturizers
AKA: SE, SELENIUM, SELENIUM (TOTAL), and SELENIUM, DISSOLVED
EWG SCORE: 8 INCI SCORE: Controversial
Use: Protects against UV light
What is it: Benzene-based fragrance enhancer and UV absorber
Health Concern: Endocrine disruption
Found In: body spray, hair treatment/serum, nail polish, fragrance, body oil, lipstick, aftershave, facial moisturizers
AKA:Benzophenone-4, Benzophenone-2, Benzophenone-3
EWG SCORE:3-4 INCI SCORE: Controversial
Use: Colorant
What is it: Finely ground particles of alulminum
Health Concern: Enhanced skin absorpition, Use Restrictions (high), Neurotoxicity (high), and non-reproductive organ system toxicity (low)
Found In: hair color and bleach, lip glos, eyeliner, eye shadow, under eye cream, bubble bath, moisturizer, blush, setting powder/spray, brow liner, bronzer, conceraler, mascara, mask, sunscreen, lip liner, nail polish.
AKA: Aluminium, Aluminium Flake, Aluminum, LP Pigment 5, Pigment Metal 1
EWG SCORE: 4-9 INCI SCORE: Not So Good
Use: Synthetic scent
What is it: chemical compound commonly used as a perfume in cosmetics and laundry powders
Health Concern: Endocrine disruption, associated with allergies and contact dermatitis, possible human reproductive or developmental toxin
Found In: perfume, fragrance for men, hand soap, hair color and bleach, lip gloss, eyeliner, eye shadow, under eye cream, bubble bath, moisturizer, blush, setting powder/spray, brow liner, bronzer, conceraler, mascara, mask, sunscreen, lip liner, sunless tanning, makeup remover, skin lightener, makeup primer.
AKA: 2-(4-Tert-Butylbenzyl)Propionaldehyde, Benzenepropanal, 4(1,1dimethylethyl)Ã Methyl, Benzenepropanal, 4-(1,1-Dimethylethyl)-.Alpha.-Methyl-, Butylphenyl Methlypropional, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Butyphenyl Methylpropional, Lilial, And P-T-Butyl-Alpha-Methylhydrocinnamic Aldehyde
EWG SCORE: 7 INCI SCORE:
Controversial/At Risk
Ingredients to be aware of
In our perfect world, every product on our shelves would be free of any shady ingredient.
However, the hair industry is just catching on to this clean thing. If we were as strict as we want to be, there would be almost no products to put on your head. So in the meantime, we're allowing some minor infractoin ingredients that are found in most hair products - and we will keep encouraging our product partners to clean things up.
Each Ingredient to Be Aware Of is listed below, along with their aliases (AKA) and their EWG and INCI clean score so that you can make only informed decisions when picking out your favorite products.
Use: Preservatives, Fragrance Enhancers
What is it: Methylisothiazolinone and Methylchloroisothiazolinone
Health Concern: Skin irritation, Sensitizer, Allergy trigger, possible neurotoxicity
Found In: All types of hair products
EWG Score: 7 INCI Score: Controversial
Product(s): Olaplex 3
Use: Binding agent, penetration enhancer
What is it: a molecule called a chelating agent. A chelating agent is a claw-like substance that can grab and stick to other molecules.
Health Concern: While EWG gives EDTA only 1-2 score, because it has the ability to cause contact dermatitis we gave it a point rating.
Found in: Shampoo, Body wash, Bubble Bath, Nail polish, Eyelash glue.
AKA: DISODIUM EDTA, TETRASODIUM EDTA, TRISODIUM EDTA, EDTA, (ETHYLENEDINITRILO)TETRA- ACETIC ACID, 3,6-BIS(CARBOXYMETHYL)- 3,6-DIAZAOCTANEDIOIC ACID, 3,6-DIAZAOCTANEDIOIC ACID, 3,6-BIS(CARBOXYMETHYL)-, ACETIC ACID, (ETHYLENEDINITRILO)TETRA-, EDETIC ACID, EDTA, ETHYLENE DIAMINE TETRA ACETIC ACID, ETHYLENEDIAMINETETRAACETIC ACID, GLYCINE, N,N 1,2ETHANEDIYLBIS[N(CARBOXYMETHYL), GLYCINE, N,N'-1,2-ETHANEDI YLBIS[N-(CARBOXYMETHYL)-, N,N'-1,2-ETHANEDI YLBIS[N-(CARBOXYMETHYL)- GLYCINE, N,N'-1,2-ETHANEDIYLBIS[N-(CARBOXYMETHYL)GLYCINE, and N,N'-1,2-ETHANEDIYLBIS[N-(CARBOXYMETHYL)GLYCINE]
EWG Score: 2 INCI SCORE: Not So Good
Use: Surfactant, Emulsifying agent
What is it: Oily liquids derived from ethoxylated sorbitan (a derivative of sorbitol) esterified with fatty acids
Health Concern: Possible contamination with 1,4-dioxane and ethylene oxide, both known carcinogens
Found In: All types of hair products and body products.
AKA: Polysorbate 20 (polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate)
Polysorbate 40 (polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monopalmitate)
Polysorbate 60 (polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monostearate)
Polysorbate 80 (polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monooleate)
EWG Score: 3 INCI SCORE: Not So Good
Use: thickeners, solvents, softeners, and moisture-carriers.
What is it: Dpetroleum-based compounds
Health Concern: Endocrine disruption, developmental and reproductive toxicity, cancer
Found In: widely used in cosmetics as surfactants, cleansing agents, emulsifiers, skin conditioners, and humectants. They are also used in pharmaceuticals as laxatives.
AKA: They often appear notated as PEG followed by a number (ex: PEG-40). In U.S. personal care nomenclature, the number represents the number of moles (aka the amount) of ethylene oxide added to the compound. PEG compounds can also be listed as PEG followed by a number and then another ingredient name (ex: PEG-20 cocamine). This represents a complex PEG compound – polyethylene glycol combined with another ingredient.
EWG Score: 1-3 INCI SCORE: Not So Good
Use: its ability to help reduce water loss from skin and keep it moisturized.
What is it: a clear, odorless liquid and a common ingredient in a variety of cosmetics and personal care products.
Health Concern: Lipid pneumonitis if ingested in reclined body position, Fecal incontinence, Intestinal malabsorption, Impaired absorption of fat-soluble vitamins, Rectal discharge of mineral oil, Anal itching and irritation, Abdominal cramps, Nausea
Found In: Antibacterial soaps and detergents, toothpaste and tooth whitening products, antiperspirants/deodorants, shaving products, creams, color cosmetics.
AKA: Deobase, Heavy Mineral Oil, Light Mineral Oil, Liquid Paraffin, Liquid Petrolatum, Mineral Oil, Mineral Oil Hydrocarbon Solvent (Petroleum); Mineral Oil (Saturated Parrafin Oil), Paraffin Oil, Paraffin Oils, Paraffinum Liquidum, Petroleum White Mineral Oil, Prolatum Oil, And White Mineral Oil, Petroleum
North Authentic Products: Most of our products don't include this ingredient.
EWG SCORE: 1-3 INCI SCORE: None provided
Use: A preservative in cosmetic products and also as a stabilizer in perfumes and soaps.
What is it: Phenoxyethanol is used as a preservative in cosmetic products to limit bacterial growth.
Health Concern: Allergies, nervous system effects (infants)
Found In: Moisturizer, eye shadow, foundation, sunscreen, conditioner, mascara, eye liner, shampoo, lip gloss, concealer, body wash, hand cream, blush, hair color, hair spray, lip balm, lotion, nail polish, baby wipes, baby lotions and soaps, soap (liquid and bar), shaving cream, deodorant, toothpaste, fragrance, hair removal waxes, hand sanitizer and ultrasound gel.
AKA: Phenoxyethanol, 2-Phenoxyethanol, Euxyl K® 400 (mixture of Phenoxyethanol and 1,2-dibromo-2,4-dicyanobutane), PhE
EWG SCORE: 2-4 INCI SCORE: Controversial
Use: Scent or flavoring
What is it: Engineered scent or flavoring agent that usually contains dozens of chemical ingredients used to create fragrances. Because they are considered “Trade Secrets,” they do not need to be disclosed.
Health Concern: Severe skin and respiratory irritation, trigger allergies, migraines and asthma attacks, Potential carcinogen, Neurotoxicity, Endocrine disruption, Birth defects
Found In: All types of hair products, body products, cosmetics
AKA: All types of hair products, body products, cosmetics
North Authentic Products: Multiple O&M products, Multiple Davines products, Epicuren Moroccan Rosemary After-Bath, Epicuren Orange Blossom After-Bath, Epicuren Kukui CoconutAfter-Bath
EWG SCORE: 8 INCI SCORE: Satisfactory
Use: Create a less harsh product
What is it: Ethoxylation is the process of reacting ethylene oxide with other chemicals to make them less harsh.
Health Concern: a manufacturing process can result in two toxic contaminants linked to breast cancer and other cancers: ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane.
Found In: shampoo, liquid soap, bubble bath, hair relaxers.
AKA: PPPG, PEG, polysorbate and ingredients that end in –eth such as laureth, steareth, ceteareth.
North Authentic Products: Most of our products don't include this ingredient.
EWG SCORE: 1-3 INCI SCORE: Not So Good
Use: Exfoliator
What is it: Promotes skin cell turnover, improves skin tone, helps unclog pores, helps thicken the dermis to slow down the formation of wrinkles
Health Concern: form small molecules called free radicals that damage DNA. Use restrictions (high), Non-reproductive organ system toxicity (low), and Biochemical or cellular level changes (high)
Found In: Skincare and haircare
AKA: Axerophthol Palmitate, Hexadecanoate Retinol, Retinol Palmitate, Retinol, Hexadecanoate, Retinyl Palmitate, Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A Palmitate), And Vitamin A Palmitate
Products: Davines Nourishing Hair Building Pak, Davines Nourishing Vegetarian Miracle Conditioner, Davines Nourishing Vegetarian Miracle Mask,
EWG SCORE: 9 INCI SCORE: Good
Use: Ethyl acrylate acts as an adhesive to apply artificial nails and eyelashes.
What is it: derived from acrylic acid and are commonly found in cosmetic nail preparations.
Health Concern: Health concerns include cancer, developmental and reproductive toxicity, organ system toxicity, cellular and neurological damage and irritation.
Found In: Artificial Nail Products (Acrylic Nails, Nail Enhancing Polishes)
AKA: ethyl acrylate: Acrylic acid ethyl ester, ethyl propenoate, EA; ethyl methacrylate: ethyl methacrylate, ethyl ester, methacrylic acid, ethyl ester, ethyl 2-methyl-2-propenoate, EMA; methyl methacrylate: Methacrylate monomer, Methyl ester of methacrylic acid, methyl-2-methyl-2-propenoate, MMA
EWG SCORE: 1-2 INCI SCORE: Not So Good
Use: prized for its effective detangling abilities, it's able to penetrate the hair shaft making it an excellent moisturizer and conditioner.
What is it: a non-sulfate, derived from rapeseed oil mainly used to improve the feel of the hair, prevent static and flyaways and soften the hair.
Health Concern: also known as a skin irritant and allergen. Can cause a burning sensation in people with sensitive skin and is dangerous to use on broken skin, open wounds, or cuts.
Found In: conditioner, detangler, styling gel, and moisturizer
AKA: BMS
Products: Jack59 Bars, Multiple Davines Products, Mulitple Olaplex products, Multiple O&M Products,
EWG SCORE: 4 INCI SCORE: Not So Good
Use: Slip, Frizz Control
What is it: a silicon-based polymer used as a lubricant and conditioning agent
Health Concern: Build up, drying of hair, environmental toxin
Found In: hair products, skin products, cosmetics
AKA: Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Dimethyl Silicone, Dimethylsiloxane, Poly(Oxyethylene Oxypropylene) Copolymer; Ethoxylated, Propoxylated Silicone Oil, Highly Polymerized Methyl Polysiloxane, Methyl Polysiloxane, Poly[Oxy(Dimethylsilylene)],A -(Trimethylsilyl)-W -Methyl-, Silicone L-45, And Siloxanes And Silicones, Dime, Hydroxyterminated, Ethoxylated Propoxylated, Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Dimethiconol, Methicone, Cetyl Peg/ Ppg 10/ 1 Dimethicone
EWG SCORE: 1-6 INCI SCORE: Not So Good
Use: Gives lotions and creams a silky, powdery feel. Adds shine and reduces frizzing to hair products.
What is it: a silicon-based cyclic compound; may be associated with environmental toxicity.
Health Concern: Build up, drying of hair, Enhanced skin absorption, Endocrine disruption (moderate), Persistence and bioaccumulation (high), Non-reproductive organ system toxicity (moderate), and Ecotoxicology (low)
Found In: hair products, skin products, cosmetics, sunscreen,
AKA: Cyclomethicone and Cyclopentasiloxane, Decamethyl
Products: O&M Style Guru (Discontinued)
EWG SCORE:3 INCI SCORE: Controversial
Use: Colorant
What is it: Colorant
Health Concern: Use restrictions (low) to (high) and Irritation (skin, eyes, or lungs) (moderate)
Found In: conditioner, hair color and bleaching products, hair treatments/serums
Types: Basic Brown 17, Basic Red 51, Basic Blue 99, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 46,
EWG SCORE: 1 INCI SCORE: Satisfactory
Use: Surfactant
What is it: Foam booster, emulsifying agent, thickener, antistatic agent, sometimes antiseptic agent.
Health Concern: It has been associated with irritation and allergic contact dermatitis, reactions that could be due to the ingredient itself or to impurities present in it, such as 3-dimethylaminopropylamine.
Found In: shampoo, body wash/cleansers, hand soap, facial cleanser, conditioners, bubble bath, baby shampoo, soap, masks, bath oils, hair treatments/serums, mousse/foam, exfoliant/scrub, toothpaste
AKA: 1-Propanaminium, 3-Amino-N-(Carboxymethyl)-N,N-Dimethyl-, N-Coco Acyl Derivs., Inner Salts, 1-Propanaminium, N-(Carboxymethyl)-N,N-Dimethyl-3-[(1-Oxococonut)Amino]-, Hydroxide, Inner Salt, 1propanaminium, 3aminon(Carboxymethyl)N,Ndimethyl, Ncoco Acyl Derivs., Hydroxides, Inner Salts, Cadg, Cocamido Betaine, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Cocamidopropyl Dimethyl Glycine, Cocoamidopropyl Betaine, Cocoyl Amide Propylbetaine, Cocoyl Amide Propyldi Methyl Glycine Solution, Cocoyl Amide Propyldimethyl Glycine, Hydroxide Inner Salt 1-Propanaminium, N-(Carboxymethyl)-N,N-Dimethyl-3-[(1-Oxococonut)Amino]-, Hydroxides Inner Quaternary Ammonium Compounds, (Carboxymethyl)(3-Cocoamidopropyl)Dimethyl, Inner Quaternary Ammonium Compounds, (Carboxymethyl)(3-Cocoamidopropyl)Dimethyl, Hydroxides, Inner Salt 1-Propanaminium, N-(Carboxymethyl)-N,N-Dimethyl-3-[(1-Oxococonut)Amino]-, Hydroxide, Inner Salt N-(Carboxymethyl)-N,N-Dimethyl-3-[(1-Oxococonut)Amino]-1-Propanaminium Hydroxide, N-(Carboxymethyl)-N,N-Dimethyl-3-[(1-Oxococonut)Amino]-1-Propanaminium Hydroxide, Inner Salt, N-Cocamidopropyl-N,N-Dimethylglycine, Hydroxide, Inner Salt; Cocoamidopropylbetaine; N-(Cocoamidopropyl)-N,N-Dimethyl-N-Carboxymethyl Ammonium, Betaine; N-(3-Cocoamidopropyl)-N,N-Dimethyl-N-Carboxymet, And Salts
EWG SCORE: 1-5 INCI SCORE: Satisfactory
Use: Preservative
What is it: a quaternary ammonium compound
Health Concern: Allergen, human skin toxicant
Found In: Conditioner, hair treatment/serum, shampoo, hair styling aides, masks, liquid hand soap, detanglers, gels, body wash, etc.
AKA: 1-Hexadecanaminium, N,N,N-Trimethyl-, Chloride, 1hexadecanaminium, N,N,Ntrimethyl, Chloride, Cetrimonium Chloride, Cetyl Trimethyl Ammonium Chloride, Chloride 1-Hexadecanaminium, N,N,N-Trimethyl-, Hexadecyltrimethylammonium Chloride, N,N,N-Trimethyl- Chloride 1-Hexadecanaminium, And N,N,N-Trimethyl-1-Hexadecanaminium Chloride
EWG SCORE:4 INCI SCORE: Not So Good
Use: preservative
What is it: synthetic antioxidants
Health Concern: tumors, interferes with hormone functions, liver, thyroid and kidney problems and affecting lung function and blood coagulation
Found In: lipsticks, moisturizers, and other cosmetics
AKA: Butylated Hydroxytoulene (BHT) Butylated hydroxytoulene
EWG SCORE:3 INCI SCORE: Controversial
Use: pH adjuster
What is it: small molecular weight buggering agent
Health Concern: Irritation (skin, eyes, or lungs) and contamination concerns
Found In: hand sanitizer, hair spray, hair styling aides, styling gel/lotions, serums, conditioner, hair treatments, styling mousse/foam, beard care, facial cleanser, moisturizer, facial moisturizer, SPF, shampoo, eyeliner, eye shadow, deodorant, around eye cream, hand cream, exfoliant/scrub, body wash, makeup primer, toners, after shave, shaving cream, detangler
AKA: 1-Propanol, 2-Amino-2-Methyl-, 1propanol, 2amino2methyl, 2-Amino-2-Methyl- 1-Propanol, 2-Amino-2-Methyl-1-Propanol, 2-Amino-2-Methylpropanol, 2-Aminoisobutanol, 2-Hydroxymethyl-2-Propylamine, Aminomethyl Propanol, And Isobutanolamine
EWG SCORE: 3 INCI SCORE: Satisfactory
Use: emulsifier, surfactant
What is it: conditioning agent
Health Concern: Suspected environmental toxin, Restricted in cosmetics left on skin and not rinsed off
Found In: conditioner, hair treatment, shampoo, mask, hair products, body wash, detangler, serums, mousse/foam, exfoliant/scrub, hair spray, facial cleanser, beard cleanser
AKA: Dimethylaminopropyl Stearamide, N-(3-Dimethylamidopropyl)Stearamide; N-(3-Dimethylaminopropyl)Octadecamide; N-Dimethylaminopropylstearamide; Octadecanamide, N-[3-(Dimethylamino)Propyl]-; Octadecanoylamidopropyldimethylamine; Stearam, N-[3-(Dimethylamino)Propyl]- Octadecanamide, N-[3-(Dimethylamino)Propyl]Octadecanamide, N-[3-(Dimethylamino)Propyl]Stearamide, Octadecanamide, N-[3-(Dimethylamino)Propyl]-, Octadecanamide, N[3(Dimethylamino)Propyl], And Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine
EWG SCORE: 1-4 INCI SCORE: Not So Good
Use: anti-static agent, hair conditioning, film former
What is it: water soluble quaternary ammonium salt
Health Concern: Allergen and potential eye irritant, Contamination concerns of 3-Dimethylaminopropylamine or Ethylene Chlorohydrin,
Found In: conditioner, hair treatment, shampoo, mascara, hair products, detangler, serums, hair spray
AKA: (.Alpha.-Gluconamidopropyl)Dimethyl-2-Hydroxyethylammonium Chloride, 1-Propanaminium, 3-(D-G Luconoylamino)-N-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-N,N-Dimethyl-, Chloride, 1propanaminium, 3(Dgluconoylamino)N(2hydroxyethyl)N,Ndimethyl, Chloride, 3-(D-G Luconoylamino)-N-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-N,N-Dimethyl- Chloride 1-Propanaminium, 3-(D-Gluconoylamino)-N-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-N,N-Dimethyl-1-Propanaminium Chloride, 3-(D-Gluconoylamino)Propyl(2-Hydroxyethyl)Dimethylammonium Chloride, Chloride 1-Propanaminium, 3-(D-G Luconoylamino)-N-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-N,N-Dimethyl-, G-Gluconamidopropyl Dimethyl 2-Hydroxyethyl Ammonium Chloride, N-G-Gluconamidopropyl-N,N-Dimethyl-N-Hydroxyethyl Ammonium Chloride
EWG SCORE: 4 INCI SCORE: Not So Good
Use: preservative, de-frizzer, conditioning agent
What is it: naturally occuring ingredient derived from seeds of Brassica rapa olifera plant (canola/rapeseed)/water soluble quaternary ammonium salt
Health Concern: Allergen, potential skin and eye irritant
Found In: conditioner, hair treatment, shampoo, mascara, hair products, detangler, serums, hair spray, facial moisturizer, beard cleanswer, hand santitizer, hair-loss treatment, under eye cream, toners, baby lotion
AKA: 1-Docosanaminium, N,N,N-Trimethyl-, Chloride, Behentrimonium Chloride, Chloride 1-Docosanaminium, N,N,N-Trimethyl-, Docosyltrimethylammonium Chloride, N,N,N-Trimethyl- Chloride 1-Docosanaminium, And N,N,N-Trimethyl-1-Docosanaminium Chloride
EWG SCORE: 4 INCI SCORE: Not So Good
Use: anti-static agent, preservative, surfactant
What is it: derived from stearic acid, a fatty acid found in plants and animals.
Health Concern: Allergen, immune and respiratory toxicant, considered safe and non-toxic at concentrations of 0.1-5%. CIR approved with concentration limits. EU approved for formulas at concentrations below 3% in rinse-off products and .1% for other products.
Found In: conditioner, hair treatment, shampoo, mascara, hair products, detangler, serums, hair spray, facial moisturizer, beard cleanswer, hair relaxer, body firming lotion, beard care,
AKA: Benzenemethanaminium, N,N-Dimethyl-N-Octadecyl-, Chloride, Benzenemethanaminium, N,Ndimethylnoctadecyl, Chloride, Benzyl Dimethyl Stearyl Ammonium Chloride, Benzyldimethyl(Octadecyl)Ammonium Chloride, Chloride Benzenemethanaminium, N,N-Dimethyl-N-Octadecyl-, N,N-Dimethyl-N-Octadecyl- Chloride Benzenemethanaminium, N,N-Dimethyl-N-Octadecylbenzenemethanaminium Chloride, Stearalkonium Chloride, And Stearyl Dimethyl Benzyl Ammonium Chloride
EWG SCORE: 5 INCI SCORE: Not So Good
what's *not* on our list
Our Hair Crimes List is super strict when it comes to chemicals that have been shown to pose a risk to human health. What we don’t include are ingredients that may cause an allergic reaction in a small section of the population. It’s not that we aren’t concerned about our allergic friends—we just don’t consider the following a Hair Crime or Not-So-Hot ingredient.
> Essential Oils
Some oils like peppermint and tea tree can cause an allergic reaction, especially during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Overall though, these aren’t universally harmful.
> Nuts
While some people are allergic to nuts, we don’t consider them a Hair Crime, as there’s no other negative health impacts associated with them.